4.0 No Start

[Lil Warlock]

This is for an 88 Wagoneer XJ, 4.0 Auto. Here's the deal. Ran great. Was sitting in the drive way idlling, and quit. Like the switch was shut off. What I need are testing proceedures and testing specs. I've checked for power. Have it everywhere I can think to check. Need to check P/U coil, engine speed sensor, etc. Any input would be appreciated.

[lowrad]

Has it got fuel..lol....but seriously has it got fuel.....check the relief vavle at the fuel rail
I would first guess it CPS(common problem)...that is your crank position sencor....it's on the bellhousing....the plug for it should be around your throtle body....unplug it check for gunk and then plug it back in....used to happen to my ol' Waggy all the time...just a bad connector

I'd start there first
Get back to us

[Lil Warlock]

Thanks. Has fuel. Tried unplugging and cleaning connectors. Need to test sensors. Need specs and testing procedures.

[wranglerboy]

Climb under and listen while someone turns key to on position! If you hear a humm.... fuel pump works! If you don't hear a humm.... chances are you need new pump! Had it happen in my old mustang, just quit like that! Replaced everything I could think of, took to shop. Guy turned key and said "Needs a fuel pump!" LMAO

Was told that this time of year, it's common! Condensation builds, freezes, gets into pump and screws them!

Ssshhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!! Listen! If you hear it........... you don't need a new one! LMAO

[Lil Warlock]

Have fuel. No spark is the problem. I spent about 6hrs on-line tonight lookin' for tests for the cps and pick up. This is what I found:

SYNC PULSE SIGNAL GENERATOR (STATOR) TEST
NOTE: For this test, an analog voltmeter MUST be used.
1) Insert the positive (+) lead of the voltmeter into the
Blue wire at the distributor connector.
2) Insert the negative (-) voltmeter lead into the Gray/White
wire at the distributor connector.
CAUTION: DO NOT remove the distributor connector from distributor.
Insert the voltmeter leads into the backside of the
distributor connector to make contact with the terminals.
3) Set the voltmeter to the 15-Volt D/C scale. Turn ignition
key to "ON".
4) The voltmeter should display approximately 5.0 volts.
5) If no voltage displays, check that the voltmeter leads are
making good contact. If there is still no voltage, go to next step.
6) Remove the ECU and check for voltage at pin "C-16" and
ground with harness connected. If there in still no voltage, proceed
to the next step.
7) Connect Diagnostic Tester M.S. 1700 to the vehicle. Using
the diagnostic tester, perform vehicle test. If voltage is present, go
to the next step.
8) Check for continuity between the Blue wire at the
distributor connector and pin C-16 at the ECU.
9) If there in no continuity, repair harness as necessary.
10) Check for continuity between the Gray/White wire at the
distributor connector and pin C-5 at the ECU.
11) If there is no continuity, repair harness as necessary.
12) Check for continuity between the Black wire at the
distributor connector and ground.
13) If there is no continuity, repair harness as necessary.
14) While observing the voltmeter, crank the engine; the
voltmeter needle should fluctuate back and forth while the engine in
cranking. A fluctuation verifies that the stator in the distributor is
operating properly.
15) If there is no pulse sync, replace the stator.

ENGINE SPEED SENSOR TEST
1) Disconnect the engine speed sensor connector from the
ignition control module.
2) place an ohmmeter between terminals "A" and "B" (marked on
the connector). On a hot engine, the resistance reading should be
between 125-275 ohms.
3) Replace sensor if readings are not within specification.

I'll try this in the mornin' before I head to town.

[Lil Warlock]

IT LIVES!!!!! Checked the CPS. Was reading 0-3ohms. Not good. :'(So I ordered a new one.
I have to work on it out side, so I didn't get to it right away. Waiting for supper today I
decided that I would crawl underneith, and see what I needed for extentions and such.
Spotted a wire against the manifold. Peeled it off. CPS wire. Insulation burnt through,
But still intact. Hmmmm. Plugged it back in, turned the key, and.....VROOOOMM! Gonna
pick up a universal socket tommorrow. Hopefully the weather will give me a break so I
can get the new one in it. Me one happy camper! ;D

[lowrad]

I'm not sayin it..lol
Just glad you found out what was wrong....usually its always something silly....it's an XJ thing...nothing ever to serious goes wrong ;D

[Lil Warlock]

Say it! Kind of figures though. Burnt wires. Atleast this time it's not my fault. Had a starter wire burn off on my 88 GM, just after the engine Re&Re. Burnt the crossover battery cable off on the Ford, cause I for got to replace a zip tie. Rush, rush ,rush. Gotta stop doin' that.